A JOURNEY FOR THE EXPERIENCE
I call this a “journey back to childhood” for a simple reason. The last time I came here was when I was still a boy — carefree and full of dreams. Life, with its endless worries and the constant struggle for a living, simply swept me along. After fifteen years years, with a more seasoned and weathered outlook, I look forward to this trip, hoping it will bring new discoveries and reveal unique facets I have not seen before.
Time hasn’t made these “children who have stayed young for too long” any less eager about the things they long for. It’s a confession — the night before the trip, I went to bed very late. Everything had been carefully researched and planned. Leaving behind the city’s hurried rhythm, I wasn’t looking for just another travel destination; I was searching for a quiet story, a place where history is not merely told, but felt.
(This is not a travel guide. It’s simply a personal note on a trekking experience.)
IDENTITY AND SETTING
The journey to An Lão brought a soothing sense of calm. The road gradually left behind the city’s dust and noise, unfolding into vast green rice fields. About twenty kilometers southwest of Hai Phong’s center lies Núi Voi—Elephant Mountain—a cluster of limestone and earth hills rising gently and winding together across An Lão District. The mountain earns its name from its shape, resembling a mighty elephant standing guard beside the serene, sparkling Lạch Tray River.
Locals compare the shape of the mountain to a resting elephant.But “Elephant Mountain” is more than a shape—it is a symbol of spirit and belief. In Vietnamese culture, the elephant embodies strength, endurance, and protection. Standing at the foot of the mountain, one feels as if wrapped in the embrace of a silent guardian.
As the highest peak in Hai Phong, the site was officially recognized as a city-level historical relic in 1962. Yet Núi Voi is known not only for its scenic beauty but also as a cradle of history and culture in Vietnam’s northern coastal plain. It preserves layers of folklore and local traditions that have long shaped the spirit of seaside communities.
This is not just a mountain; it is one of the country’s great archaeological sites—a discovery that reshaped how we understand the ancient roots of northeastern Vietnam. Here, archaeologists unearthed precious artifacts such as stone axes, adzes, and bronze weapons, evidence of an early civilization that helped form the essence of Vietnamese identity. My journey here was not simply a climb, but a quiet walk upon the foundation of a nation’s past.
“A Trekking Journey Rich in Emotion and Experience
I. Chi Lai Communal House
The first place I visited on the journey was Chi Lai Communal House — the oldest and most venerable communal house in the Núi Voi historical and scenic complex. The high, open space of the courtyard brings a sense of calm and serenity. Stone steps lead up to the courtyard, enclosed by brick walls rising to waist height and painted in the warm yellow typical of Vietnamese communal houses and temples.
A First GlanceFrom my inquiries I learned that this is the communal house dedicated to Đức Cao Sơn Đại Vương (literally “The Venerable Great Lord of the High Mountain” — venerated locally as a military commander under the Hùng Kings). The structure dates from the 19th century, or perhaps earlier.
Legend says that while pursuing invading forces through this area, the commander paused here and found the place remote yet full of soul — where mountains and rivers seemed to breathe in harmony. Captivated by this living beauty of the land, he gathered his troops, prepared for battle, and after the victory, called upon people to reclaim the wild fields, to build new hamlets, and to begin a life rooted in this very soil. In gratitude, the local people later petitioned the royal court to establish this communal house in honor of Đức Cao Sơn Đại Vương. Every year, on the fifteenth day of the first lunar month, residents from across An Lão gather here to hold the ceremonial offerings.
Chi Lai Communal House – A Panoramic ViewChi Lai Communal House perches on the mountainside with a view over the valley. Its mossy roof and carved dragons and cloud motifs convey a quiet dignity. Within the courtyard stands an ancient banyan tree, its trailing roots reaching toward the roof and the courtyard floor, as if time itself were descending. Encircled by rolling hills on one side and lush green rice fields on the other, the air carries the faint fragrance of fruits and blossoms. Because of this poetic, tranquil beauty, the people of old composed a beloved verse in praise of this place:
“Gập ghềnh, đỉnh thấp, đỉnh cao
Bàn cờ, hang đá, kênh Triều, Mạc xưa
Cảnh Long hoa bốn mùa thanh tịnh
Đình Chi Lai trung chính sườn non
Bốn bề chân núi dân thôn
Tiếng thiều, tiếng trúc véo von đi về.”
An Interpretive Translation of the original verse:
“Rugged peaks rise, uneven and tall
The Fairy Chessboard, where Mạc and Triều relics sleep
The Long Hoa Pagoda remains serene through all four seasons.
Chi Lai Temple rests upon the slope, steadfast and pure
Villages embrace the mountain’s foot
The pipes and flutes sweetly weave on the homeward path.”
II. The Caves of Núi Voi
The Núi Voi site is blessed by nature with a wealth of beautiful caves, each carrying its own story. Among them are Hang Họng Voi (Elephant’s Throat Cave, historically home to a large population of bats, whose droppings were once collected by locals for gunpowder), Hang Chiêng (Bell Cave, featuring a large rock that, when struck, produces a clear metallic sound reminiscent of ancient bronze gongs), Hang Cá Chép (Carp Cave), Động Nam Tào (Nam Tào Cave), and Động Bắc Đẩu (Bắc Đẩu Cave — Nam Tào and Bắc Đẩu are two revered deities in Vietnamese folk belief).
Each cave, from Hang Họng Voi to Hang Cá Chép, Nam Tào, and Bắc Đẩu, is adorned with stalactites and stalagmites in curious shapes — dragons poised in homage, crouching tigers, and more. The air inside is cool and still, creating an atmosphere that is at once mysterious and solemn, inviting quiet reflection and a sense of reverence.
III. Già Vị CaveThe next place I visited was Già Vị Cave (Hang Già Vị, according to research, its name originates from the 1947 war; the entrance to the cave had the house of Mr. Già Vị, a patriotic person who made contributions to the resistance), regarded as the most beautiful cave in the Núi Voi historical site. According to the locals, if one comes to Núi Voi but has not visited Già Vị Cave… it is truly a significant omission!
Già Vị Cave is a deep cave with many nooks and crannies; the entrance stretches into darkness and carries a faint scent of incense. It gives the feeling of a secluded, tranquil inner sanctum. The path descending roughly 50 meters underground has stairs and railings, quite steep, but built solidly and safely.
There are many stalactites protruding; I could not find the most precise way to describe them, so I tentatively call them “curving stone curtains,” shimmering and ethereal. Additionally, there are many “măng đá” (local term for stone formations) with a variety of unique shapes, which locals call “crouching tiger, elephant head, dragons poised in homage…” and other forms difficult to describe and name.
Not to forget, outside the cave entrance is a small stone stele engraved with two very famous lines of poetry, which almost every Vietnamese person knows:
“Đứng trên đỉnh núi ta thề / Không giết được giặc, không về Núi Voi.”
Translation:
“Standing on the mountain summit, we swear: if we do not defeat the enemy, we will not return to Núi Voi.”
It is said that this was a wartime slogan during the 1947 conflict.
IV. Climbing to the Summit
The climb to the mountain summit was a considerable challenge for me, yet it was entirely worth the experience. The air here was truly fresh and cool. Grass and plants rose above my head, with few large trees around, and the path was wide and open, allowing my gaze to sweep over the surrounding scenery. The chirping of birds created an extremely “chill” feeling — a sensation found only in the green, tranquil outskirts.
The stone steps are quite steep and can become very slippery during extended rainy days, so caution is necessary to ensure safety. Another note: you might actually encounter the moment… a snake slithering across the path. Do not panic; remain calm, wait for it to pass, and continue your journey — don’t let this small moment stop you. Absolutely do not attack or chase it, as this may provoke a defensive reaction and cause danger. And remember, even if you are physically fit, climbing these steep steps can still be exhausting. Do not rush; take a seat, rest, hydrate, and enjoy the view below.
From this height, the view encompasses the lush green rice fields of An Lão, along with the gentle Lạch Tray and Đa Độ rivers. It is a moment of quiet contemplation, where one can clearly feel the harmony between majestic nature and the serene calm of the port land.
V. Bàn Cờ Tiên – The Fairy Chessboard
The next destination was Bàn Cờ Tiên (a relatively flat area on the mountain summit, associated with fantastic folk legends about celestial beings descending to play chess), located at the top of Núi Voi. However, this is only a metaphor; in reality, it is a small structure with a high roof supported by pillars. I counted a total of eight pillars, all covered with haphazard scribbles — names and messages left by young couples who had visited here. Love and youth are truly beautiful and wonderful. •_•
From here, looking down, the rice fields stretched like a vast green carpet, with villages along the river glimpsing through like a strip of white silk, and the horizon hidden behind a misty veil. A practical tip: wear shoes and socks, and pay attention to the fabric of your clothes, as some materials can easily catch burrs from the grass. While this may not be painful, it can take time to remove them. But if you see it as part of the experience… it’s perfectly fine! °_°
All around, many small green apples were growing—sour in taste, sticky, and still immature. You can pick and eat them, but consider carefully, as consuming damaged or unsuitable fruit may upset your stomach.
VI. Conquering the Summit of Núi Voi at 143 Meters
Looking up from this point, the weathered limestone peaks rise and fall like natural fortresses. There is a path leading upward, but be cautious to ensure safety. Do not attempt to climb if there is no clear trail ahead — the sharp “cat’s ear” rocks (pointed limestone formations shaped by rain erosion, resembling a cat’s ears) can be dangerous, and may break, fall, or be slippery if grabbed. Looking up further, you will notice countless tree roots weaving across the cliffs like a net, a reminder of human smallness before the grandeur of nature.
Once again, I must emphasize the danger. The sensation of climbing these jagged limestone peaks is truly exhilarating, but always pay attention to where you place your feet.
And if you manage to reach the summit of Núi Voi at 143 meters, you will come across a special stone slab — flat, naturally shaped, and smooth. Couples often use this stone to carve their names, as a promise or a keepsake. Once again, love and youth are truly wonderful. •_•
I spent some time on the summit of Núi Voi, among the limestone slabs, wild grasses, and reed plants, with the sound of birds and dragonflies fluttering and gliding through the air. From this vantage point, the 360° panoramic view, mist and clouds, and gentle breeze created a profound sense of calm and presence. If you enjoy a hot cup of coffee, having it here would not be a bad idea.
However, do not camp overnight; heavy rain and wind can be hazardous. Snakes and insects may also pose problems. It is best to descend before late evening.
CONCLUDING THE JOURNEY
Leaving the cliffs behind, I made my way to the spiritual sites at the foot of the mountain, places that preserve the spirit of the ancient Vietnamese.
There is Long Hoa Pagoda, once a bustling center of Buddhism during the Lý dynasty (11th–12th centuries). Today, the scale of the pagoda, with its largest bronze Buddha statue in Hải Phòng (weighing 15 tons), reflects the deep reverence and dedication of the local people in preserving their spiritual heritage.
Finally, I visited the temple of the female general Lê Chân, who played a significant role in the Trưng Sisters’ uprising in the 1st century and is also credited with pioneering and establishing the land of An Biên, the predecessor of today’s city of Hải Phòng.
After completing this meaningful journey, I treated myself to a truly local meal in An Lão. This culinary experience did more than satisfy my hunger — it served as the final piece, completing the picture of the culture and people of this place.
Before leaving, I stopped by a local stall to buy some cakes and treats to take home. The lingering fragrance of rice closed the chapter on a journey rich with flavors and memories.
For those who wish to explore on their own:
- Location: An Lão District, approximately 20 km from central Hải Phòng.
- Ideal time to visit: Summer and Autumn, when the scenery is coolest and most beautiful.
- Quick tip: Take the time to thoroughly explore the caves and the temples at the foot of the mountain.
- Note: A small fee ($5–10) may apply for certain attractions (such as caves or conservation areas).
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